How to Care for Your Hair: Do’s and Don’ts
While different hair types require different methods of care, one principle is universally true — it’s important to show your hair some TLC. Here, discover the do’s and don’ts when it comes to keeping your hair healthy.
Don’t Overprocess Your Hair
“Overprocessing is bad for hair regardless of color, texture, and genetics,” says Wattenberg. As background, overprocessing happens when you bleach your hair or improperly use things like hair dye or relaxers. “Overprocessing leads to breakage of disulfide bonds and ultimately hair breakage,” says Wattenberg. Disulfide bonds are the chemical bonds that keep your hair’s proteins together, which gives hair its strength.
One study, for example, found that bleaching or excessively dying your hair can damage the cuticle layer, as well as weaken the protein and cause lipid loss. Thus, most experts recommend skipping the bleach and extending the time between color touch-ups (in the winter, they suggest waiting as long as 8 to 10 weeks).
Do Choose a Shampoo and Conditioner That’s Specific to Your Hair Type
If you walk down the hair-care aisle at your local store, chances are you can find a product for every hair type (and every hair issue). And, it turns out, they’re not just a gimmick. “These products are quite specialized and can make a world of difference,” says Wattenberg. “Is your scalp dry or oily? Is your hair color-treated? Do you have dandruff? Be sure to choose the shampoo and conditioner that’s designed for you,” she says. For example, the American Academy of Dermatology advises that people with dandruff use a specially formulated dandruff shampoo to help treat and control it.
Don’t Overdry Your Hair
Another method of overprocessing? Using your hair dryer and hot styling tools too regularly. “Blow-dryers, curling irons, and flat irons can burn your hair and your scalp — and can cause your hair to break and fall out,” says Wattenberg.
Past research has analyzed the effects of using hair dryers at various temperatures and found that the surface of the hair became more damaged as the hair dryer temperature rose. If you do use a hair dryer, the study authors suggest using it at the lowest temperature, 15 centimeters away, to prevent damage as much as possible. Also, move the device with a continuous motion, rather than staying on one spot for long periods of time.
Do Shield Your Hair and Scalp From the Sun
When it comes to sun protection, most of us are concerned about our skin (from our face down to our toes), but do you ever think about your scalp and hair? You should! “Color-treated hair can change colors from the sun, but also the scalp can burn,” says Wattenberg. Even though the hair does block some ultraviolet rays that can cause cancer, it doesn’t help shield you if you have bald spots or a part in your hair.The solution? “Wear a hat or use an SPF sunscreen designed for the scalp,” advises Wattenberg. Also, be aware that the sun can damage your actual hair, too — not only discoloring it but also potentially damaging the cuticle and strength of the hair fiber.
Don’t Skip the Conditioner
While your showers might be hurried if your schedule is busy, it’s a good idea to make sure you’re conditioning your hair after every shampoo. That’s because conditioner can improve the look of hair that’s been damaged — it adds shine, helps strengthen it, and even reduces static electricity. So, a little conditioner is worth it for a good hair day. Wattenberg advises making sure you’re keeping the conditioner in long enough to really see the benefits. Follow the directions noted on the bottle.
Also, follow a shampoo and conditioner routine that’s based on your specific hair. “Styling practices vary completely based on hair type and desired style,” says Lamb. “For example, if you have dreadlocks, they can often be washed monthly, regularly conditioned, and protected at night — but if your hair is straighter, this styling practice would not lead to healthy hair,” Lamb adds. “In general, though, you should wash and condition your hair at the frequency that is necessary for your style and hair type. This can be daily or weekly or monthly.”
Do Protect Your Hair While Swimming
Although swimming is great exercise, ample time in the pool isn’t ideal for your hair. “Chemicals in the pool can dry your hair and irritate it,” says Wattenberg.
She advises applying conditioner before jumping in, or wearing a cap. It’s also wise to wet your hair with fresh water first, before conditioning it, so that your hair absorbs the chlorine-free water rather than the chemical-filled H2O. You may even want to buy a special shampoo and conditioner designed for swimmers, which can help replace some of the hair’s moisture that may have been lost.
Don’t Intensely Brush Your Hair
Although you may be tempted to get out every last tangle, too much brushing isn’t good for your tresses, especially if you use all your strength to remove those knots.
Try as best as you can to brush gently to prevent breakage. Ideally, you’ll want to use a wide-tooth brush with smooth prongs (though ask your stylist if there’s a special brush that’s best for your hair type).
If you have long hair, hold the lower portion of your hair as you carefully run the brush through the ends, and then move your hand up and continue to brush below your hand.
Do Conduct Your Own Research on Products Before Buying Them
A surprisingly long list of ingredients typically goes into making hair-care products, and not all of them are healthy, to say the least.
One study discovered a potential connection between breast cancer and personal use of hair dye (that is, products bought over the counter), though more research is needed to understand whether hair dye itself causes an increased risk of breast cancer.
In the research, when white women used permanent hair dye one or more times in a 12-month period, their risk of developing breast cancer was 9 percent higher, compared with women who didn’t use any. Black women who used permanent hair dye one or more times in a month had an even greater risk — 45 percent higher than those who didn’t use it. The study involved 46,709 participants.
The authors point to the chemicals in hair dye potentially playing a role in breast cancer development. To help keep your hair (and body) healthy, it’s worth doing a little research before you buy any product for your hair.
On the other hand, another longer and larger study showed no connection between hair dye and cancer risk.
The American Cancer Society notes that research results are mixed.
Ask your hairstylist what’s in the hair dye they use, and check out sites like the Environmental Working Group, which has a database of better-for-you hair care products made without the biggest chemical offenders. One note though: Keep in mind that some experts consider the Environmental Working Group’s views to be extreme on certain health subjects.
Don’t Go Too Long Without a Haircut
When your hair stylist suggests that you come back for a haircut every few months, it’s not just to keep you as a regular client. “Regular haircuts help avoid damage from the ends up — split ends run up the shaft and weaken the hair, exposing it to moisture loss and tangles,” says Pacheco. Walker recommends a cut every six to eight weeks to prevent damage.
The same goes for people who are trying to grow out their hair. “If you’re looking to grow your hair, you might be considering skipping a trim — but reshaping and trimming your hair regularly keeps it looking strong and healthy, as opposed to brittle and thin, while you move through the growing process,” Walker adds.
Do Consider a Silk Pillowcase
Sleeping with a silk pillowcase is trendy right now — and for good reason. “I suggest all hair types should consider a silk pillowcase, so you aren’t roughing up the cuticle while you sleep,” says Pacheco. “This is particularly beneficial for fizz-prone, curly, kinky, and fragile hair types,” he adds.
Don’t Let Braids, Cornrows, or Weaves Get Too Tight
If your hair is pulled tightly and it hurts, it’s likely that the hair is getting damaged. Be sure to speak up if your stylist pulls your hair too tight, and then ask them to redo it. Repeated tight braids and cornrows can cause permanent follicle damage, potentially causing the hair not to grow back over time.
Do Go to a Professional for Relaxers
If you do use a relaxer, proceed with caution. It’s a good idea to go to a professional, who can help ensure that the product is applied in a safe way. Also, don’t rush the time between touch-ups. You’ll want to go no more than every two to three months, and make sure that only new hair gets the relaxer (not hair that’s already been relaxed).If you notice that your hair is breaking or falling out after treatments, you may want to avoid chemicals altogether.“Too many heat or chemical treatments can put stress on any hair type,” says Lamb.
